Project research: Anrealage Spring 2020 RTW
Another collection I have researched for my project is Anrealage's 2020 RTW by designer Kunihiko Morinaga.
Concept of this collection seems to be really close to mine and that is why I have chosen to research it and get inspired before creating my own designs. Main characteristics of this collection are enlarged diameters of collars, wide trousers and clothing twisted on the body so that we see it from 3/4 view on the front.
Diameters of these collars are definitely not natural and catch our attention. I also like this visual aspect of clothes literally hanging on the body very loosely instead of fitting it nicely. There is something odd, strange about it. As we can see in the look No. 2, designer has played with proportions very unevenly and left some parts of the garment in a rather natural size like i.a. arms of this tailored jacket when all the rest of it is very "extra" in it's size. In my opinion it creates an interesting look and I like these very deformed proportions. I think it fits a concept of my project very well too and so it does as an inspiration for it.
Another interesting features occurring in this collection are extremely widened in legs trousers and twist of the center of waist to the side. I really like how these large pant legs look like and it reminds me of my design from the last collection when I have widened legs to create a skirt from them. Design from look No. 7 reminds me of that and I would like to continue to present my world and style of design through this motive. I may potentially use this reference in my new collection.
I also like the twist Morinaga gave to the trousers on the waist. I think it looks interesting and helps to adapt clothing to new, different proportions that do not look as odd when combined with construction changes like this. I like this smart approach to design and I will keep it in mind during design process of my garments.
In look No. 6 from Fall 2013 collection, Morinaga's incorporated another interesting element to the construction of trousers. Pants fitted on the waist become more loose and wide on the legs due to the slits on the from of each leg. I think it is a great way to manage the volume of the garment and its shape.
What intrigued me in look 41 from Spring 2016 RTW by Anrealage is duplication of the same element on the garment. I really like the look of it. Buttoning on this shirt has been applied 4 times at perpendicular angles in order to create this unusual silhouette. I really like how conceptual this look is and how the use of one motive throughout the whole body allows for the idea of completeness of a look.
The last detail from Anrealage's collection that inspired me during the research is this gradient effect used on a coat in look 21 from Spring 2019 RTW. I am very impressed by the final effect they were able to deliver and how fluent is this gradient. Very opaque, neutral colour became a transparent fabric within just 30 cm. Knowing that things like this are possible allows me to create even greater designs. I am happy that I have found this collection and that my knowledge about fabrics and prints is wider now.
Visual sources:
Vogue. 2019. Anrealage Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. [online] Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/anrealage/slideshow/collection#3> [Accessed 25 April 2021].
Vogue. 2019. Anrealage Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. [online] Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/anrealage/slideshow/collection#2> [Accessed 25 April 2021].
Vogue. 2019. Anrealage Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. [online] Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/anrealage/slideshow/collection#21> [Accessed 25 April 2021].
Vogue. 2019. Anrealage Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. [online] Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/anrealage/slideshow/collection#8> [Accessed 25 April 2021].
Vogue. 2019. Anrealage Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. [online] Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/anrealage/slideshow/collection#7> [Accessed 25 April 2021].
Vogue. 2019. Anrealage Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. [online] Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/anrealage/slideshow/collection#4> [Accessed 25 April 2021].
Vogue. 2018. Anrealage Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. [online] Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/anrealage/slideshow/collection#21> [Accessed 25 April 2021].
Good comments regarding Look 41 - the completeness of the outfit needs to be something that you are aware of during your development of this project. Judging by the research so far, you need to be aware of the need to not overload your designs with too many influences all trying to be the most significant element of your collection. Impressive commentary on these collections in this post and the previous two. Well done.
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