Glossary of terms

Fashion Design Glossary of Terms

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bias/ bias cut

Bias is the diagonal direction of woven fabric. Fabrics usually tend to stretch more on the bias rather than on the vertical or horizontal direction unless they are woven. Good use of bias cut allows designer to create a garment that drapes better and fits body closer and more naturally.

bustier

A garment similar to a corset that ends at the waist or hips. Undergarment that is now worn as a woman's top, is usually strapless.

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dart

V-shaped cutout in a garment that is usually created in order to shape the fabric so that the garment fits the rounded parts of the body. Darts are most often found at the bustline, the back shoulder, the waistline, and the hipline.

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loafer

Moccasin-style classic slip on shoe that has a strap at the front. The strap is stitched to the front of the shoe. If the strap has a coin inserted in the slot, the shoe is called a penny loafer. If it has a tassel at the front, it is a tassel-top loafer.

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pleat

A fold of fabric that is either stitched down or held in place by another construction feature in order to manipulate volume. Usually multiple pleats are grouped together in order to achieve a desirable effect. Pleats may be part of a blouse, skirt, or pants.

princess line

A line or seam on the mannequin created in order of achieving greatly fitted garments without generating unwanted bust darts that could potentially disrupt the whole balance of the design.

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seam

In sewing, the place where two pieces of fabric are joined. This creates a more or less visible line on the surface of a garment. Many different kinds of seam constructions are used, depending on whether the seam is a decorative element of the design, the kind of fabric used, or how much stress is placed on the seam.

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weft and warp knits

Knitting is the formation of fabrics from yarns by creating interconnected loops. Knits may be made from one long, continuous yarn (as in hand knitting) or from sets of yarns. In weft knits, yarns run and interlock across the fabric. In warp knits, the yarns run or interlock in the lengthwise direction. Hand knitting is a form of weft knitting, but weft knits are also made on machines. Weft knits stretch more than warp knits. If stitches break, a run or ladder forms in the lengthwise direction. The most common types of weft knits are jersey (also called single or plain knits) in which all stitches are pulled to the same side of the fabric, so that one side of the fabric is smooth and the other side has loops.

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