This show was taking place in Paris abandoned Metro Station. Invitations had a form of business cards with adress written on them.
Martin was working with certain manufacture at the time however, they did not produce all of the garments on time for the show. Therefore, Margiela decided to create something out of nothing and to put collection together on the last minute. Clothing bought in local thrift stores became a textile for this season's garments.
Due to the lack of textile to produce entire outfits Margiela used it in a way that is in my opinion genius. By drawing motives of prints on models' bodies, he was continued the theme of memory of clothing from his previous collections. This step or idea was really unique and the timing for it was just perfect.
Shirt made out of other garment. Continuing the theme of upcycling the fabric and 'giving clothing second life'. This shirt also featured Margiela shoulders.
Also due to the lack of printing possibilities, Margiela decided to paint the print patterns on plain clothes. The intention for that was also to reduce the barrier between two pieces of clothing, to fuse the boundaries.
This painting elements were also want to symbolise temporisation of fashion. At the time fashion was heavily associated with something long lasting/ long term art form. By painting the fabric motives on models, Margiela wanted to emphasise that and make an art piece out of that moment that will last only the amount of time he will decide it to last. He created something passing in fashion, which was not common at all.
Visible ties was also an interesting feature in this collection. It was necessary to tie the scarf-skirt garments created in the hurry for this show.
This top was created with the intention to be worn as a dress. Super extended zippers were working only in a small range of its length to make people wear it as it was planned by the designer.
Cuffs worn by themselves were also featured in this collection.
High sitting back of the neckline was a new feature added to the coats from Margiela.
This collection was very different from the previous work of Margiela. The necessity of creating most of the garments for the season from thrifted ones required him to push his creativity even further and present more wearable clothes that were still well constructed and a lot of thought was put into creating them.
What I like about this collection is the conceptual aspect of painting and extending the prints from the used fabrics and the upcycling/ reconstructing approach to design. I really like the silhouette that the high neckline is creating with the coat and I think I may include similar detail in my garments too. It will give them specific, powerful look, especially combined with power suits. Extending the patterns and designs is also very intriguing feature and could be possibly applied to some of my clothes too.
Sources:
Foster, B., 2019. Margiela Runway History - Spring 1991. [image] Available at: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uInZaJsyPQk&list=PLfGI7hNonZsHjnD5XnQIJVzFAVs-rciuo&index=7> [Accessed 31 January 2021].
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