Margiela Spring 1989
This was the first fashion show for Maison Martin Margiela.
Models casted for this show looked like 'normal' women. They did not really fir into the vision of catwalk models at the time. Their hairstyles were messy as well as their makeup. Martin appreciated the beauty of women 'from the streets'.
As Martin said: "My clothes appeal to the women of a certain mindset, rather than of a specific age or physic." His clothing really was about the specific style he was trying to represent.
Some of the most important details and characteristics of clothing from this collection are:
- Not finished, raw edges of fabric
- Modified sewing machines resulting in thread dangling from the seams
- Clothing was exposing the process/ how it was made
- Tabi boots (characteristic for this house)
- Tightened menswear sleeves
- Backward skirt
- Margiela shoulders
In this collection, we can see very clearly designer's intentions and what will be the house built on in the future. The fact that Margiela performed this show in the theater instead of Louvre Museum was shocking for 'fashion people' back then. Martin really emphasises the importance of focusing the viewer's attention on the clothing itself instead of the models or other aspects of the brand. He also underlines the importance of memory of clothing in the first look when the model does not wear the top but instead, she has sun marks on her body in the place where this garment should be. Margiela's intentional details referencing old fashion or questioning fashion as a whole at his times really inspire me. He has realised through his studies that shoulders and shoes play the most important role in the process of building beautiful silhouettes therefore, he put an effort an created two of this statement elements for his very first collection to underline the direction and legacy of his brand. His designs are also very famous for the layering he has done throughout 20 years of his work at Maison Martin Margiela.
Sources:
Foster, B., 2019. Margiela Runway History - Spring 1989. [image] Available at: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMzRnCaNe0c&list=PLfGI7hNonZsHjnD5XnQIJVzFAVs-rciuo> [Accessed 21 January 2021].
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